A Closer Look at Kentucky's Red River

The Red River in its headwaters doesn’t look capable of carving through time one of the most scenic and geologically unique areas in the United States. It is a small, intimate stream not much wider than many Kentucky creeks.

However, the river’s westward journey from the Cumberland Plateau through the Pottsville (or Cumberland) Escarpment leaves in its wake a boulder strewn valley with natural stone arches, rock shelters, soaring cliffs and scenery that leaves visitors spellbound. The sheer grandeur of the Red River inspired Congress to designate National Wild and Scenic River status to the 19.4 mile section from the KY 746 bridge downstream to the mouth of Schoolhouse Branch. The Red is the only National Wild and Scenic River in Kentucky.

The Red River possesses two distinct floats for canoeists, kayakers and anglers: the swift upper Red River for kayakers and the much gentler middle section for canoeists and anglers.

Fishing the Red River requires patience. The middle section offers the best fishing. Clear water and lots of human activity make the smallmouth bass, spotted bass and sunfish jumpy on Red River. Downsize line size, wear drab clothing and use small, subtle lures such as 4-inch finesse worms and 3-inch boot tail grubs for smallmouth and Kentucky bass. Red in-line spinners work great on longear sunfish, rock bass and bluegill.

Rainbow and brown trout inhabit some tributaries of the Red River, such as Swift Camp Creek, East Fork of Indian Creek and the Middle Fork of Red River.

Paddlers on the Red shouldn’t be fooled by the creek-sized flow they encounter at the upper river access in Wolfe County. The upper Red River possesses one of the most awe-inspiring, remote and challenging stretches of whitewater in the southeastern United States.

Floats on the 10.8-mile upper Red begin at the U.S. Forest Service Big Branch put-in located just off KY 746 (do not use the KY 746 bridge as your put-in). You should scout all rapids on the upper Red to determine the best route and detect in-stream obstructions which paddlers call “strainers.” Cliffs rising from the bank along with huge boulders can make portaging around many rapids difficult.

Ice storms over the last several winters snapped off many trees in the Red River Gorge. These trees flush into the Red River with each flood, creating strainers. You don’t want to encounter a strainer blocking your route as you fly through one the upper Red’s fast rapids.

Whitewater kayaks are the best boats for floating the upper Red as canoes must be equipped with extra floatation and only experts should pilot them. Helmets and personal floatation devices must be worn. Helmets protect the paddler from the many overhanging rocks and ledges along this stretch.

The first few miles offer fairly gentle Class I rapids, until you reach the mouth of Stillwater Creek. The Red then drops into a Class II rapid called Stillwater Falls by some paddlers. The river picks up speed as the stream begins its fall off the western edge of the Cumberland Plateau and into the downward cut that made Red River Gorge. This rapid holds some huge boulders and requires quick maneuvering, especially at lower water levels.

The next major rapid in the float is a river-wide ledge referred to as the Falls of the Red, sometimes called Calaboose Falls. Run this ledge either far left or far right at low-to-moderate water. The middle may be best at higher flows.

The river again flows fairly gently for a time until the Red cuts around a right-hand bend at the eastern boundary of the Clifty Wilderness area near the mouth of Peck Branch. The first rapid you encounter, known as Entrance Rapid, marks the beginning of the Narrows of the Red, a long stretch of challenging Class II to III+ (depending on water levels) whitewater.

Entrance Rapid is a series of drops requiring quick maneuvering around mid-stream boulders. Move toward a large boulder on the left (looking downstream) to negotiate the drop at the end of this rapid. Gather your nerves and take a breather as the next rapid, the Dog Drowning Hole, lies just a short distance downstream. You must scout this rapid on your right (looking downstream). Dog Drowning Hole is a large churning, turbulent chute that can fool the paddler at low flows and buffet your boat with cross currents at high water.

The third, and last, rapid of the Narrows begins after the river seems to disappear around a bend to the right. Run this rapid center right and avoid the undercut bank downstream. The rest of the upper Red contains some Class II rapids until the take-out at the KY 715 bridge.

The U.S. Geological Survey’s stream gauge at Hazel Green should read at least 200 cubic feet per second for the best floating on the upper Red. For current readings, log onto http://www.waterdata.usgs.gov/nwis and click on the “real time data” tab and then Kentucky. You can float this section at much lower water levels, but you may have to walk your boat through extended reaches of water.

The 10.5-mile stretch of the middle Red River begins at the put-in at the KY 715 bridge and concludes at the old ford across the river at the mouth of Schoolhouse Branch. Boaters may take out at the KY 77 bridge to make this an 8-mile float or continue on for two more miles to a take-out at the old ford below the mouth of Schoolhouse Branch on the right (looking downstream, access via Forest Service Road 23). Paddlers may also make the two-mile float from the KY 77 bridge to the same take-out below Schoolhouse Branch. This float is ideal for a summer evening or families with younger children.

The middle Red is easy floating with some sharp turns, boulder gardens and mild riffles as the stream flows through the heart of the Red River Gorge National Geological Area. The scenery is stunning.

The Blue Water Trails series supports Gov. Steve Beshear’s Adventure Tourism Initiative. Log on to Kentucky Fish and Wildlife’s Blue Water Trails webpage at fw.ky.gov for a detailed map.

Red River Adventures: (606) 663-1012

Red River Outdoors: (859) 230-3567

Red River Gorge Hike

Red River: 50cfs

Jay and I met up with his brothers, Bill and John and the four of us headed out into the gorge to try and hike all the way to the Red River narrows where the hardest rapids of the whitewater run are. We were unsure of any trails that existed past Clifty Creek, but we would try to stick to the river and see how close we could get.

We didn't make it. After Clifty Creek the trail turns into a small road, about the size for a 4 wheeler. After the very next creek it begins to wind up the cliff away from the river, then it begins to turn back on it's self and head the opposite direction we wanted to go. It was at this point that we gave up this trail. We couldn't find much of any other kind of trail that kept by the river so we opted to head to Clifty Creek and setup camp.

We had great weather, great if you like to take on all the elements, cold rain the first day followed by just the cold the 2nd. Personally I was glad to be out hiking and camping in this stuff. We had the gear for it. We a had a good fire. It was a whole lot of fun and the scenery was beautiful. I love the Red River Gorge.

Also 50cfs would be very low and any canoe would scrape in many places along the river, BUT it is certainly doable for a canoe to make it down the river. And it may be the best way to see all the great scenery within the narrows.

So look for us next Spring to go back, this time by boat even at a low water level, for another overnight trip into the Gorge.

Also on the way back home we stopped at the Pilots Knob State Nature Preserve and climbed to the top of Pilots Knob where there are some great views of the Bluegrass. We could see Lexington in distance some 35 miles away. It was a very cool side hike outside of Clay City.

Another great trip!

• pictures

Red River Gorge

• Level: 150cfs
• Red River Near Hazel Green
• Pictures

On this Saturday Jay and I finally made our long awaited run down the Red River Gorge. We were the only paddlers on this stretch this day as the level was a bit on the low side. But for our fist run this just what we wanted. A low level, so we could test the gorge and see what it is all about. And beauty is what it's all about.

This certainly is a scenic run and you can see it in the pictures. But I can also see how the difficulty of this run increases dramatically as the water rises.

The drive to the put in and time for setting up the shuttle is long. There is a designated put-in just a mile up stream from 746. The first 3 to 4 miles are easy class I rapids. The scenery through all of it is awesome. Especially when you come upon a huge rock amphitheater. At this point you are getting lose to the first real rapids.

I would call everything a III- or II+ at our level Saturday. Around mile 4 the first rapid, Entrance Rapid, is encountered. No problems here. After that is more flat class I water. The next is the falls, a river wide ledge, the center looks to be the best route at higher water. After that is even more flater water. We were starting to wonder if there would even be any more rapids, but soon they came.

Next you really enter the gorge as the walls tighten and bigger boulders lie in the river. The rapids come one after the other now and these could be mean at high water, but at our level they were no problem. You do how ever have to watch out for trees at all times. I accidentally rolled in some squirly water right undera tree I was trying to avoid.

Once you start seeing hikers and campers you know you are getting closer to the park. There are some more class II rapids then some flat water and the bridge at 715.

The run is 10.8 miles and it took us 4 hours to paddle it. We left home at 8am and were home by 8pm. You gotta love those home court whitewater runs. I sure do and I especially love this one. This may make a perfect overnight trip with some experienced paddlers when the water is just right.

I have been eyeing the gorge for 2 years. Hopefully it won't be that long until I'm back.

Red River Middle Section

130cfs

Jay, Sarah, Beastie and I did this section of water. They canoed, I kayaked. It is a very interesting run. Very easy flat water, with good current and scenery. Jay and Sarah flipped early on, but after that everything was good until we had to portage a mess of trees that were river wide. Overall, it is a great run. I'll head back to it when I want to teach some newbies. Will make a good training ground and has good camping.